Best Cordless Circular Saws

1. How We Picked These Saws

We looked at the current brushless circular saws from every major battery platform, including DeWalt, Milwaukee, Makita, Ryobi and Skil, and kept the ones that are widely available, still in production and, where possible, sold as bare tools so you can run them on batteries you already own. We skipped brushed saws entirely. The brushless versions cost only a little more, cut far longer per charge and hold their speed better under load.

Every saw made the same cuts: crosscuts through 2x10 Douglas fir framing lumber, full-length rips in 3/4-inch plywood, 45-degree bevels in 5/4 decking, and plunge cuts in OSB sheathing. We ran each saw on the largest battery its maker recommends and again on a mid-size pack, because the same saw can feel like two different tools depending on what is clipped to it.

We paid particular attention to what you notice on a real job: whether you can see the cut line without leaning over the saw, how quickly the blade stops when you release the trigger, how easy the depth and bevel adjustments are to set and lock, and how the saw balances with a big battery hanging off the back. Specifications cover the rest, and we have listed the ones that matter in each pick.

Our picks lean toward 7-1/4-inch saws, because that is the size that bevels through 2x lumber at 45 degrees and the one most people need. We have included one 6-1/2-inch saw for people who mainly cut sheet goods and trim, and one rear-handle saw for framers and anyone who prefers that layout. If your work is mostly precise rip cuts in sheet goods, read the section on blades, which covers when a table saw is the better tool.

2. 6-1/2-Inch vs 7-1/4-Inch: Choosing a Blade Size

Blade size decides depth of cut, and depth of cut decides what the saw can do. A 7-1/4-inch blade cuts roughly 2-7/16 to 2-5/8 inches deep at 90 degrees, which is enough to go through standard 2x lumber, actually 1-1/2 inches thick, with room to spare. More importantly, it still gets through that lumber at a 45-degree bevel. That is the reason 7-1/4 inches became the standard size for framing and deck work.

A 6-1/2-inch blade cuts about 2-1/4 inches deep at 90 degrees and around 1-5/8 inches at 45 degrees. That is enough to cross-cut a 2x4 square, and plenty for plywood, OSB and trim, but a 45-degree bevel through 2x lumber is marginal, and you may need to finish the cut from the other side. In exchange, the smaller saw is lighter, easier to control one-handed and draws less current, so it cuts more per charge on the same battery.

For most homeowners the 7-1/4-inch saw is the safer choice because it does everything, including the occasional bevel through a stair stringer or a rafter tail. Blades in this size are also far easier to find, in more tooth counts and specialty types, at any hardware store. If the saw will mainly break down sheet goods and cut trim, siding and fence boards, a 6-1/2-inch saw is lighter and entirely adequate.

There is another reason 7-1/4-inch cordless saws now make sense even for occasional DIY: brushless motors and larger batteries have closed most of the power gap. A few years ago a cordless full-size saw could struggle badly in wet pressure-treated lumber. Today's brushless models on a 6.0Ah or larger battery cut through it steadily, though still not quite as relentlessly as a good corded saw on a long rip.

3. Our 7 Top Picks

These are the seven cordless circular saws we would buy. The DeWalt DCS573 is our overall pick because it combines full 7-1/4-inch capacity, an electric brake and a 57-degree bevel with a manageable weight and the option of a FlexVolt power boost, but the Milwaukee and Makita saws are just as good for owners of those batteries. We have also picked a compact 6-1/2-inch saw, a rear-handle saw and a budget option for occasional use.

2

Milwaukee M18 FUEL 7-1/4-Inch Circular Saw (2834-20)

18V Brushless, 7-1/4 in Sidewinder

Best for Milwaukee Owners

4.7 (400 ratings on Amazon)

Milwaukee's current M18 FUEL 7-1/4-inch sidewinder is one of the strongest cordless circular saws you can buy. Milwaukee rates it at 6,000 RPM with a 2-5/8-inch depth of cut, enough to go through 3x material in a single pass, and a 57-degree bevel with detents at 22.5 and 45 degrees. At about 7.9 pounds bare it is light for a full-size saw, and it has an electric brake. In our testing on a large high-output battery it cut through 2x10 fir and ripped plywood without bogging, and it cut steadily through wet pressure-treated decking where smaller-battery saws slowed. Milwaukee claims up to 750 cuts per charge, but that figure uses its large M18 FORGE HD12.0 battery, and the saw is at its best on high-output packs of that class. On a mid-size battery it is still strong, but it runs down noticeably faster. The main case against it is cost: the saw itself is premium, and the batteries that bring out its best are expensive. For existing M18 owners, especially those who already own high-output packs, it is the obvious choice. It is listed with the blade on the right, which suits you if that is the layout you are used to; if you prefer a left blade and a rear handle, look at Milwaukee's rear-handle saw instead.

Pros

• 6,000 RPM, among the fastest no-load speeds on this list
• Up to 750 cuts per charge on an M18 FORGE HD12.0 battery, by Milwaukee's figure
• 57-degree bevel with detents at 22.5 and 45 degrees
• 2-5/8-inch depth of cut handles 3x material in one pass
• About 7.9 lb bare, light for a full-size saw, with an electric brake

Cons

• Needs a large high-output M18 battery to live up to its claims
• Premium pricing, and the big batteries add significantly to it

The Bottom Line

A powerful, well-built saw that belongs at the top of any M18 owner's list.

Check Price →

3

Makita 36V (18V X2) LXT Brushless 7-1/4-Inch Circular Saw (XSH06Z)

18V X2 (36V) Brushless, 7-1/4 in

Best for Makita Owners

4.7 (1,300 ratings on Amazon)

Makita's answer to the power demands of a 7-1/4-inch saw is to use two of its 18V LXT batteries at once. The XSH06 runs at 36V, and the result is a saw that feels closer to a corded model than most single-battery designs. Makita rates it at 6,000 RPM with a 2-5/8-inch depth of cut at 90 degrees and a bevel range to 56 degrees, with positive stops at 22.5, 45 and 56 degrees. Makita claims up to 610 crosscuts in 2x4 SPF per charge with two 5.0Ah batteries. In our testing it ripped plywood and cross-cut framing lumber with a steadiness that only the Milwaukee and the FlexVolt DeWalt matched. The dual-battery design has a practical advantage for existing Makita owners: you do not need to buy into a new, higher-voltage battery line to get this power, only to own two LXT packs, which most Makita users already do. The drawbacks follow from the same design. You must have two charged batteries to use it at all, and with both fitted it is heavier than the single-battery saws here. Makita also sells a 40V XGT saw, the GSH01, with similar speed and bevel figures, but for existing LXT owners the XSH06 is the smarter buy because it needs no new batteries or charger.

Pros

• Runs on two 18V LXT batteries for 36V of power without a new battery system
• 6,000 RPM with a 2-5/8-inch depth of cut at 90 degrees
• Up to 610 crosscuts in 2x4 per charge with two 5.0Ah packs, by Makita's figure
• 56-degree bevel with positive stops at 22.5, 45 and 56 degrees
• Electronically controlled brushless motor matches torque and speed to the cut

Cons

• Needs two charged batteries to run at all
• Heavier with both batteries fitted than single-battery saws

The Bottom Line

The most powerful way to cut on Makita 18V batteries, and an excellent saw in its own right.

Check Price →

4

DeWalt FLEXVOLT 60V MAX Brushless 7-1/4-Inch Circular Saw with Brake (DCS578B)

60V FlexVolt Brushless, 7-1/4 in

Most Powerful

4.7 (1,500 ratings on Amazon)

If you want a cordless saw that behaves like a corded one in the toughest material, this is it. The DCS578 runs on DeWalt's 60V FlexVolt batteries only, and DeWalt rates it at 5,800 RPM with a 2-9/16-inch depth of cut, a 57-degree bevel with stops at 22.5 and 45 degrees, and an electric brake. In our testing it was the saw least bothered by long rips through wet pressure-treated lumber, holding its speed where 20V saws on smaller packs slowed down. The catch is the battery. FlexVolt packs are large, heavy and expensive, and this saw will not run on a standard 20V pack at all. The good news is that FlexVolt batteries also run every DeWalt 20V MAX tool, so they are not wasted on other work, though they make a drill or impact driver front-heavy. For most homeowners, the DCS573 with a FlexVolt battery gets surprisingly close to this saw's performance while keeping the option of running on light 20V packs, which is why that saw takes our top spot. The DCS578 makes sense for people who frame, build decks or cut sheet goods in volume, and who would otherwise be dragging a cord across the job site every day.

Pros

• 60V FlexVolt power, rated at 5,800 RPM
• Electric brake stops the blade quickly after trigger release
• 57-degree bevel with stops at 22.5 and 45 degrees
• 2-9/16-inch depth of cut at 90 degrees
• The most corded-like feel we found in wet and dense lumber

Cons

• Only runs on FlexVolt batteries, which are large and expensive
• Heavier and bulkier than 20V saws once the battery is fitted

The Bottom Line

The saw for people who cut a lot of heavy material and want to leave the corded saw at home.

Check Price →

5

SKIL PWRCORE 20 Brushless 2x20V 7-1/4-Inch Rear Handle Circular Saw Kit (CR5429B-20)

2x20V (40V) Rear-Handle, 7-1/4 in

Best Rear-Handle Value

4.5 (300 ratings on Amazon)

Cordless rear-handle saws from the professional brands are expensive, which is what makes Skil's version interesting. It is sold as a kit with two PWRCORE 20 5.0Ah batteries and a dual-port charger, and the saw uses both batteries at once for 40V of power. Skil rates it at 5,300 RPM, with a 2-9/16-inch depth of cut, a 0 to 53 degree bevel and an electric brake, and claims up to 600 cuts per charge with the included batteries. The layout is the point. The motor sits behind the blade, the handle is at the back, and the saw is long enough to track straight along a line, which is why framers who learned on worm-drive saws prefer this style. In our testing it tracked well on long rips and cross-cut 2x10s with little fuss. The dual-port charger tops up both batteries together, and Skil says it brings them to 25 percent in about 15 minutes, which is handy when you are waiting on a battery mid-job. The trade-offs are the usual rear-handle ones, weight and bulk, plus a platform question: Skil's PWRCORE 20 catalog is decent for home use but smaller than DeWalt's or Milwaukee's. If you want the rear-handle layout without professional prices, this is the one to buy. Professionals on M18 should look at Milwaukee's 2930-20 rear-handle saw instead.

Pros

• Rear-handle layout with the long body and sight line framers prefer
• Runs on two PWRCORE 20 batteries for 40V of power, rated at 5,300 RPM
• Up to 600 cuts per charge with the two included 5.0Ah batteries, by Skil's figure
• Electric brake, LED light, rafter hook and a 0-53 degree bevel
• Kit includes two 5.0Ah batteries and a dual-port charger, with a 5-year warranty

Cons

• Skil's PWRCORE 20 platform is smaller than the big professional brands
• Heavy and long, like every rear-handle saw

The Bottom Line

The most affordable way to get a cordless rear-handle saw with real power, provided you are happy to start the Skil platform.

Check Price →

6

Makita 18V LXT Brushless 6-1/2-Inch Circular Saw (XSH03Z)

18V LXT Brushless, 6-1/2 in

Best Compact

4.6 (1,100 ratings on Amazon)

Not everyone needs a 7-1/4-inch saw, and the Makita XSH03 is the best argument for going smaller. It uses a 6-1/2-inch blade with a 2-1/4-inch depth of cut at 90 degrees and 1-5/8 inches at 45 degrees, and Makita rates it at 5,000 RPM. That depth cross-cuts 2x lumber square with ease but makes a 45-degree bevel through it marginal, so this is not the saw for stair stringers or rafters. What it is good at is nearly everything else. It is noticeably lighter and more compact than the full-size saws here, which makes it easier to control on plywood, sheathing, fence boards and trim, and easier to use one-handed or at awkward angles. Makita's Automatic Speed Change technology adjusts speed and torque as the load increases, and in our testing it kept cutting through 3/4-inch plywood rips on a single mid-size LXT battery without the stalling a 7-1/4-inch saw showed on the same pack. It has been on sale for several years, and its 5,000 RPM figure is lower than current full-size saws, but for the jobs it is designed for that makes little practical difference. If you mostly break down sheet goods and do light carpentry, and you own Makita batteries, it is the most pleasant saw on this list to use.

Pros

• Lighter and easier to control one-handed than any 7-1/4-inch saw here
• Automatic Speed Change adjusts speed and torque as the load increases
• Runs on a single 18V LXT battery and copes well on mid-size packs
• 2-1/4-inch depth at 90 degrees cross-cuts 2x lumber square with ease
• Smaller blade draws less current, so it cuts longer on the same battery

Cons

• Only 1-5/8 inches deep at 45 degrees, so bevels through 2x lumber are marginal
• 5,000 RPM is slower than current 7-1/4-inch saws

The Bottom Line

The saw for sheet goods, trim and light carpentry, where a smaller, lighter saw is simply easier to use.

Check Price →

7

Ryobi ONE+ HP 18V Brushless 7-1/4-Inch Circular Saw (PBLCS300B)

18V ONE+ HP Brushless, 7-1/4 in

Best Budget

4.5 (700 ratings on Amazon)

Ryobi's ONE+ HP saw is the budget pick because it gives homeowners full 7-1/4-inch capability at a much lower price than the professional brands. Ryobi rates it at 4,300 RPM with a 2-7/16-inch depth of cut at 90 degrees and 1-3/4 inches at 45 degrees, enough to bevel through 2x lumber, and a bevel range from 0 to 56 degrees. Ryobi claims more than 325 cuts per charge. In our testing it cross-cut 2x10s and ripped plywood competently on a large high-output ONE+ battery, but it was the slowest saw here and bogged down in wet pressure-treated lumber where the brushless professional saws kept going. That is the honest trade: this is a saw for occasional projects, such as a shed, a fence repair or a few sheets of plywood, rather than for building a deck every weekend. The battery matters more than usual. On a standard compact ONE+ pack it struggles; on an HP high-output pack it is a genuinely useful saw. The platform is the other reason to buy it. ONE+ batteries also run Ryobi's drills, drivers, lawn tools and a long list of household tools, and if you already own them, this saw is a sensible and inexpensive addition to the kit.

Pros

• Full 7-1/4-inch capacity at a budget price
• 0-56 degree bevel range
• 2-7/16-inch depth at 90 degrees and 1-3/4 inches at 45 degrees
• Runs on the huge ONE+ battery system shared with hundreds of tools
• Ryobi claims more than 325 cuts per charge

Cons

• 4,300 RPM is the slowest here, and it bogs in wet or dense lumber
• Needs an HP high-output battery to perform well

The Bottom Line

The best circular saw for occasional DIY use on a budget, especially for existing ONE+ owners.

Check Price →

4. Left Blade or Right Blade

Circular saws put the blade on one side of the motor, and which side matters more than most buyers realise. It decides whether you can see the cut line from your natural working position, which way the saw's weight falls, and whether sawdust blows toward you or away. There is no universally correct answer; it depends on which hand you use and how you like to work.

On a right-blade saw, the common layout for sidewinders, a right-handed user has the motor between their eyes and the blade, so they either lean over to watch the line or follow the guide notch on the front of the shoe. On a left-blade saw, a right-handed user sees the blade and the line directly without leaning, which many people find more accurate for freehand cuts. Left-handed users experience the opposite.

Rear-handle saws usually put the blade on the left, which is part of why framers who learned on worm-drive saws are so attached to them: a sight line straight down the blade, with the bulk of the saw on the supported side of the board. Blade side varies between models even within one brand. Milwaukee's current M18 FUEL 7-1/4-inch sidewinder, the 2834-20, is listed with the blade on the right, while its rear-handle saws keep the blade on the left.

Our advice is simple. If you already use a circular saw and like it, buy one with the blade on the same side, because retraining your eye and your stance takes longer than you would expect. If you are new to circular saws and right-handed, try a left-blade saw in a store if you can. Whichever you choose, check the listing or the maker's specifications, because blade side is rarely obvious from product photos.

5. Sidewinder or Rear-Handle (Worm-Drive Style)

Most circular saws are sidewinders: the motor sits beside the blade and drives it directly, the handle is on top, and the saw is compact and relatively light. Many framers, particularly on the West Coast, have long preferred worm-drive saws, where the motor sits behind the blade and drives it through gears, with the handle at the back. Cordless rear-handle saws borrow that layout for battery power.

The rear-handle layout has real advantages on long cuts. The saw is longer, which helps it track straight along a line; the handle behind the blade gives a natural pushing position; and with the blade on the left, a right-handed user sees the cut clearly. It also keeps your hand further from the blade. The downsides are weight and bulk. Milwaukee's M18 FUEL rear-handle saw, the 2930-20, weighs around 10 pounds before the battery goes on, and the layout is awkward for cutting overhead or one-handed.

Most cordless rear-handle saws are not true worm-drive designs, so their gearing and feel differ from a corded worm-drive even when the layout matches. For practical purposes, what you are buying is the ergonomics and the sight line. The Skil PWRCORE 20 rear-handle saw in our picks runs on two 20V batteries at once, giving 40V of power to drive the longer, heavier saw.

For most homeowners and DIYers, a sidewinder is the better choice: lighter, easier to manoeuvre, easier to store and usually cheaper. Choose a rear-handle saw if you already learned on one, if you frame or cut decking in volume, or if you simply find it more controllable in your hands. It is a genuine preference, not an upgrade, and neither layout cuts better than the other.

6. Battery Size and Cuts Per Charge

The circular saw is the most power-hungry tool most people run on batteries, and it exposes a small battery immediately. A 7-1/4-inch brushless saw on a compact 2.0Ah pack will cut, but it bogs down in thick or wet lumber, trips its overload protection and runs flat quickly. On a 5.0Ah or larger high-output pack, the same saw can feel like a different tool entirely.

Manufacturers publish cuts-per-charge figures, and they are useful within limits. Milwaukee quotes up to 750 cuts per charge for its 2834-20 with its large HD12.0 battery. Makita quotes up to 610 crosscuts in 2x4 for the XSH06 with two 5.0Ah packs. Skil quotes up to 600 for its rear-handle saw with two 5.0Ah batteries, and Ryobi more than 325 for the PBLCS300. Each figure uses a different battery and a different test, so do not rank saws by them.

What those figures do tell you is the scale. One charge can cover a day of intermittent cutting on a deck or a remodel, but only with a suitable battery. As a practical rule, run a 7-1/4-inch saw on at least a 5.0Ah pack, preferably a high-output one, and keep a second battery on the charger. A 6-1/2-inch saw is more tolerant of a mid-size pack.

This is also where platforms differ. DeWalt's FlexVolt batteries switch between 20V and 60V and power both the 20V DCS573 and the 60V DCS578. Makita's XSH06 takes two 18V packs at once, and its 40V XGT saws use a separate battery system. Ryobi has separate 18V and 40V lines, and our Ryobi 18V vs 40V guide explains why those batteries do not cross over. For platform-level comparisons, see Milwaukee vs DeWalt and DeWalt vs Makita.

7. Bevel Capacity and Depth of Cut

Every circular saw bevels to 45 degrees, the angle you need for mitred corners and most roof and stair work. What differs is how far past 45 degrees it goes, and how easy it is to set accurately. Most saws here bevel to somewhere between 50 and 57 degrees. The DeWalt DCS573 and DCS578 and the Milwaukee 2834-20 reach 57 degrees; the Makita XSH06 and Ryobi PBLCS300 reach 56; the Skil rear-handle saw reaches 53.

Going beyond 45 degrees matters for specific jobs: steep roof pitches, some stair and rafter cuts, and outside corners that are not quite square. If you do not know whether you need it, you probably do not, but it costs nothing extra on most of these saws. More useful day to day are positive stops at 22.5 and 45 degrees, which let you set common angles quickly and repeatably without reaching for a protractor.

Depth of cut at 45 degrees is the number to check if you cut bevels in 2x lumber. A 7-1/4-inch saw that cuts 2 inches deep at 45 degrees goes through 1-1/2-inch-thick lumber cleanly, with some allowance for blade wear; the DCS573 is rated at exactly that. A 6-1/2-inch saw at around 1-5/8 inches is borderline, and you will likely need to finish some bevel cuts from the other side of the board.

Set the cut depth for every cut rather than leaving the saw at full depth. The blade should project about a quarter inch below the material. A shallow setting reduces the risk of kickback, gives a cleaner cut with less tear-out, and puts less strain on the battery, which translates directly into more cuts per charge. It takes a few seconds and is the single easiest improvement to how any saw performs.

8. Electric Brakes, Guards and Kickback

An electric brake stops the blade within a couple of seconds of releasing the trigger instead of letting it coast to a stop. It is the one safety feature we would insist on, and most of the saws in our picks have one. Without a brake, a coasting blade is a common way people get hurt setting a saw down, and it slows you down too, because you wait for the blade to stop before moving on.

Kickback is the main hazard with any circular saw. It happens when the blade binds in the cut, usually because the offcut sags and pinches the blade or the saw drifts off line, and the saw jumps back toward the user. Support the work so the offcut falls free, keep the blade depth shallow, stand to one side of the cut line, and never reach under the material while the blade is turning.

Brushless saws add a layer of electronic protection. When the blade binds hard, many will cut power to protect the motor and battery. That is useful, but it is not a replacement for good technique, and it will not stop a kickback that has already started. Keep both hands on the saw wherever the design allows, and let the blade reach full speed before it touches the wood.

Check the lower guard every time you pick the saw up. It should snap closed on its own. Sawdust and pitch build-up can make it sluggish, especially after cutting pressure-treated lumber, and a guard that sticks open is dangerous. A quick clean with a brush and a dry lubricant keeps it moving freely, and it is worth doing at the end of every project.

9. The Blade Matters More Than the Saw

The blade supplied with a cordless circular saw is usually a general-purpose 24-tooth carbide blade. It is fine for framing lumber, and it is poor for plywood, where it tears out the face veneer. Changing the blade does more for cut quality than switching between any two saws on this list, and it costs a fraction of the price.

For cordless saws, choose thin-kerf blades. A thinner blade removes less material, which means less work for the motor and more cuts per charge, and many blade makers now sell lines designed specifically for battery saws. For framing, a 24-tooth thin-kerf blade is the standard. For plywood and sheet goods, a 40- to 60-tooth blade gives a far cleaner edge with much less splintering.

Replace blades when they go dull rather than pushing harder. A dull blade burns the wood, needs more force to feed and drains the battery faster, which makes a good saw feel weak. Pressure-treated lumber and OSB dull blades quickly, so on a large deck project expect to change blades at least once.

If you need consistently straight, square rip cuts in sheet goods, a circular saw with a straightedge guide will get you close, but a table saw is the right tool for that job. Our best table saws guide covers jobsite and benchtop models. Many people end up owning both, using the circular saw to break full sheets down to a manageable size and the table saw for the finished rips.

10. Match the Saw to Your Battery Platform

As with every cordless tool, the battery you already own should guide your choice. The saws here come from five different battery systems, and none of them share batteries. A circular saw is also usually the tool that forces people to buy their first large battery, so it is a good moment to think carefully about which platform you are committing to for the long term.

If you already have an impact driver or a drill on one of these platforms, the saw from that platform is the right choice unless it lacks something you specifically need. If you are starting now, the saw is a good tool to build the platform around, since it needs the biggest batteries. Our best impact driver guide covers the other tool most people buy alongside a saw for deck and fence work.

DeWalt and Milwaukee are the strongest choices for heavy, regular cutting, with deep saw lineups and high-output batteries. Makita offers excellent saws in both its 18V LXT and 40V XGT lines, and the dual-battery XSH06 lets existing LXT owners get serious power without a new battery system. Ryobi and Skil are the value options, and both are perfectly sound for homeowners who cut occasionally.

Whichever platform you pick, include the battery when you compare prices. A bare saw that looks cheap can cost considerably more once you add a 6.0Ah pack and a charger, and a kit that includes them is often better value for a first saw. The saw you can afford to run on the right battery is a better buy than a more powerful one you run on the wrong one.